AN OASIS OF SERENITY

A Perspective on California Mission History

It is hard to imagine for a modern person how difficult life could be in the latter half of the 18th century; even in a place like "California" with its relatively good weather.  For Europeans in the 18th century, the area we now call California was, to a great extent, uncharted.  Even along it's coastline California was not well known.   For many Spaniards the area was considered of little value.  

Some scholars believe California got it's name from an early 16th century fiction novel, "Las Sergas de Esplandian ("The Deeds of Esplandian")." In this book the Christians at Constantinople fight against an army of Amazons led by a Queen named "Calafia" who rules over the island of "California." In 1519, some of Hernan Cortes' men who helped conquer the Aztec Empire were aware of the novel.   This was almost three centuries before California was "settled." California is unusual in the fact that it was named before being discovered.  

Since the mid 16th century the Spanish had been sending expeditions to the Southwest.   Ships sailed along the coast of California, while expeditions such as the one led by Coronado in the mid 16th century explored by land.  

Yet, the California coastline was so unfamiliar to the Spaniards it wasn't until 1769 that Gaspar de Portola and his party "overshot" Monterey Bay and accidentally discovered the San Francisco Bay.  In the 16^th century the Englishman, Sir Francis Drake, didn't see this Bay when he camped nearby.   This was after he and his men had plundered Spanish settlements on the west coast of South and Central America and then stopped to rest before sailing back on their long trip home to Britain.  

Spain was the primary European power who claimed California as a part of her empire.   Christopher Columbus "discovered" the "New World" for Spain in 1492; though this land had been inhabited by native cultures for thousands of years.  Also, the "Vikings" landed on the Northeast coast of what is now Canada and the United States centuries before Columbus landed in 1492.   In 1001 Lief Ericsson led an expedition from Greenland which landed in the area now known as the east coast of Canada.   Ericsson named this area "Vinland," or "land of vines.  " 

Scientists believe, in approximately 10,000 B.C., peoples from Northeast Asia followed migrating herds of animals over a land bridge which existed in the area now known as the Bering Sea; near Alaska. Over the next 25 centuries the "Indians," who were so named by Columbus because he at first believed he had landed in the Indies, moved southward.   There is also a theory which says the native peoples came from the South Pacific Ocean and landed in South America.   From there they fanned out north, east and south.  

During the two hundred and fifty years after Columbus first arrived in the New World, countless Spanish "conquistadors" (conquerers) and colonists explored areas that would come to be called "North" and "South America."

By the mid-18th century, California was an area in Spain's New World empire that was "undeveloped" in the sense that most Europeans thought about land.  To Europeans, a land not farmed was being wasted. To the native cultures, land in its natural state was not seen as a way to make money. This different point of view had grave consequences in the centuries since 1492. 

Much of the area now known as the "Southwest" corner of the United States was inhabited by "native" populations of people in the mid 18th century.   It was only in New Mexico, where the Spaniards and their sheep were still living like 16th century Spain, that there was much Spanish influence.  

It was during the mid 18th century that the ruler of Spain determined to "colonize" California.   Franciscan priests were to go into the area and establish a series of "missions" or outposts; up and down the coast. The idea of using clergy to help in the colonization of Spain's New World empire was one which Kings had used before the 18th century.  Spanish colonial policy, using religious men to help hold land; was influenced by Spain's 800 year fight to evict the Muslim "Moors" from the Spanish mainland.  

The notion of using "spiritually-minded" clerics to help tame a wilderness also had roots in the practices of ancient Rome.   Additionally, Roman soldiers and settlers were allowed to marry local women in the colonies they occupied.  Throughout "New Spain," many Spanish men, as much as some of the upper classes may have looked down on the native Indians, frequently took Indian brides.  

In the centuries before the 1760's, Spanish monarchs had allowed religious orders such as the Jesuits, Dominicans or Franciscans to accompany soldiers into wilderness areas.   New Spain was to be conquered by a sword and a Christian cross.  In 1769, the decision was made to allow Father Junipero Serra to lead an expedition northward from Laredo, Mexico.   The goal was to establish what was hoped would be a series of missions in the area called "Alta" (Upper) California.  

By creating mission outposts in California, political and religious purposes would be served.   For most of the priests who would live among the native populations, their long-range goal was to make the Indians self-sufficient.  The priests in California hoped the Indians would eventually take over the running of the missions.   The friars intended at that future point only to operate the churchs or parish facilities.  

A pragmatic reason for Spain to settle Upper California was the encroachment from the north of Russian settlers. At different points in history the British also wanted California.   The missions would help establish a Spanish "presence." The same year Father Serra left for California from Mexico, three ships set sail from La Paz, on the "Baja" (Lower) California peninsula.   Their destination was an area later called the city of San Diego.   Here, they were to link up with Father Serra and his group.  

Before this famous "rendezvous," both parties experienced bad weather en route.   The sea expedition lost one ship while Serra and his men had to deal with extreme heat and hostile Indians.   Serra buried men along the way. Many of those who survived the trips were sick or hurt when they met near the San Diego Bay.   In spite of this, the first of what would eventually be 21 California Missions was soon established.  

In the early days of the San Diego Mission there was a shortage of manpower.   Also, befriending and then converting the native peoples proved difficult. The local tribes around San Diego, unlike many of the other California "indiginous" cultures, were sometimes hostile and aggressive.   There were setbacks.   A priest was killed.  

Most anthropologists agree California was the most densely populated "hunter-gatherer" area north of the Rio Grande River before the Spanish arrived in the 16th century.  In Alta California no single tribe or band dominated.   There was no Huron Confederacy or Iriquois Nation.   Instead, there was a mosaic of small groups.   Many were "kin-based" and could be quite different from the others.   Frequently, bands who lived near each other spoke different languages.  

From the Yurok Indians in the north, to the Shoshone and Fernandino in the south, native California societies were varied.   Each adapted to the environment they lived in.  By the late 18th century, the "indiginous" peoples of the New World had been decimated.   Millions died from "Old World" diseases brought from Europe.  

In California, Indians were at times hunted "for sport" by the Spanish.   Later, in the 19th century, some whites who came after gold near Sutter's Mill did the same.   Many Europeans viewed Indians, unlike blacks, as having no "monetary" value.  Since the time of Columbus blacks were considered "livestock" like cows, sheep or horses.

Starting slowly, the "Alta California Mission System" grew and later prospered.   Gradually, the many herds of livestock multiplied and crop harvests increased.  But life could still sometimes be hard for colonists living a wilderness life.

In 1493, three hundred years before the establishment of the California Missions, one year after Columbus first landed in the New World; Pope Alexander VI issued a Papal Decree, the "Treaty of Tordesillas." This pronouncement sought to reconcile the conflicting territorial claims of the two most powerful Catholic nations of that particular time; Spain and Portugal. Pope Alexander's decree divided the round earth into two hemispheres.   An arbitrary vertical, north-south dividing line was established.   Anything to the west would belong to Spain while everything to the east would be controlled by Portugal.

The right to explore and exploit the areas which were later called "North" and "South" America was limited to Spain and Portugal because they were strongly Catholic in a period just before men like Martin Luther and John Calvin convinced nations and individuals to break away from the Catholic Church during the "Protestant Reformation. "

Spain's seamen would follow Columbus and travel to the west while the Portuguese sailed further and further down the west coast of Africa; to the south.   In 1498, Vasco da Gama went around the southern tip of Africa for Portugal.   Until the building of the Suez Canal in 1869, this would be the best route to Asia and areas such as India and the West Indies. But da Gama's achievement, in combination with Columbus' famous voyages, were events which changed the world.   After the fall of Constantinople and the "Byzantine" Holy Roman Empire in 1453, Muslim middlemen had partially controlled the riches coming from the "Far East." Da Gama's and Columbus's feats doomed the Middle East to centuries of poverty and, in the New World, foresaw such things as the African slave trade and slaughter of native cultures in North and South America.  

When the Treaty of Tordesillas was issued, no one knew the area now known as Brazil was sticking out to the east, beyond the line drawn by Pope Alexander.  This is why Brazilians, unlike most of South and Central America, speak Portuguese rather than Spanish. 

 In his famous edict, the Pope issued, along with the right of exploration, an admonition to the Monarchs of both Spain and Portugal.   As Catholics he said, it was their duty to send out explorers accompanied by "worthy, God-fearing, learned, skilled men to instruct the native populations in the Catholic faith." Locations such as South and Central America, as well as Baja California, were the places where the Spanish mission system was developed in the centuries before the establishment of the San Diego Mission.  

During the two and a half centuries before the California Missions, a "philosophy" of human rights, similar to modern "Liberation Theology," developed among the priests who lived with the native peoples.   Father Bartolome de Las Casas was the most famous cleric who fought for the Indians to be treated as human beings. Of course, these priests were often opposed by the military and members of the civilian population.   Many of the Spaniards considered "los Indios" sub-human.  

When it was decided to settle Alta California, many Spaniards assumed that if it were necessary to force the Indians to give up their land, they would use a steel sword instead of the priest's Bibles.   Clubs, spears and bows and arrows were hardly a match for metal weapons.   To many Europeans, whether Spanish, French, British or Dutch, American Civil War General Phil Sheridan's remark summed it up, "The only good Indian I ever saw was dead."

The various rulers of Spain at times used, or "played," the clergy against the secular elements of society in order that neither become too powerful.   King Charles III came to the Spanish throne in 1759.   He wanted to re-establish Spain's high position in his 18th century world.  

Spain's power had been eroded in the 17th and early 18th centuries by other European powers such as England, France and Holland.   It might be argued that Spain's slide began as early as 1588; with the crushing naval defeat of her large "invincible Armada" by Queen Elizabeth's England.  

In the 17th century other European nations began setting up colonies in the New World.   Spain and Portugal's monopoly was coming to an end.   The decision by King Charles to strengthen his nation meant he wanted to protect his borders.  

To develop California King Charles would use the old method of allowing priests to go into an area and be the pathfinders for others.   Their presence would also send a signal to other nations such as England, France or Russia.  However, instead of Jesuits, who were then operating missions in Baja California; it would be the gray-robed Franciscans who would be sent up to Alta California (The "padres" did not start wearing brown until the mid 19th century).  

One change in the governing system in Alta California would be that the military would not be under the authority of the clergy, as had been the case in other areas.  The Spanish Church had developed tremendous power by the 18th century.   King Charles may have been exerting his sovereignty and letting the priests know their proper place in his kingdom by giving the military superiority.  

From the single original mission in San Diego, the California Mission chain would spread northward in a sort of hopscotch manner.   Father Serra was assisted by such priests as: de Lasuen, Palou and Crespi, along with many others less famous. Together with their Indian converts, these hard-working priests were able to build a successful network of outposts in Alta California.  

Try as he might, King Charles was destined to preside over an ever-weakening Spanish Empire.   Spain's grip on the far-flung reaches of her colonies was slipping. After 1797, the same year the San Fernando Mission was established, Spain's decline accelerated.   The once great Spanish Empire was crumbling.   Ironically, in a certain way, the day the San Fernando Mission was established it was already doomed.  

In the year 1795, almost the entire Spanish fleet was handed over to the French.   In the next two decades the "Napoleonic" wars were to prove an utter disaster for Spain.  In 1806 Napoleon Bonaparte, who opportunistically used the chaos and anarchy of the French Revolution to get into power, invaded the "Iberian" peninsula; where Spain and Portugal are located.   This completely disrupted the Spanish government.  Isolated from Spain during this upheaval, some Mexicans began to talk of independence from Spain. They were influenced by the American and then French Revolutions, as well as their hatred of Spain.   The early years of the 18th century saw many parts of the Spanish Empire break away.   By 1821, after a decade of bloody conflict and strife, Mexico won her independence.  

For much of the remainder of the 19th century, with varying intensity, unrest continued in Mexico.   To a certain extent, Mexican independence brought more problems for the missions.  In 1822, when word reached California of Mexico's ouster of Spain, there were 20 "missions," 15 "ranchos," (ranches) and 4 "presidios" (forts) strung out from just above the San Francisco Bay down to San Diego.   

There were about 20,000 Indians living on or close to the California missions in 1822.   To the east, in the "interior," were many uncounted native people. In Alta California, those who were called "la gente de razon" (the civilized "people of reason") numbered about 3,500 in 1822.  

In the early 19th century the "pueblo" (town) of Los Angeles had a "cosmopolitan" population which also included blacks and Asians from the South Pacific rim and China. The Spanish population of Los Angeles in 1822 was about 650, who represented a cross section of classes and occupations.  

The California Missions would feel the effects of the political winds.   In 1833, a debilitating blow came with news from Mexico.  It was in 1833 that the Mexican Congress passed a bill calling for the immediate "secularization" of the by then 21 Missions in Alta California.  The accumulated wealth of the missions would be dispersed among the Christian Indians.   Governor John Figueroa was given the task of implementing this order to break up the missions.  

Figueroa believed however, that the Indians were incapable of operating a mission.   He proposed, at first, only a certain number of the mission acres be turned over. Governor Figueroa proposed that half the lands and livestock be apportioned to the leading Indian families who would not be permitted to sell, trade or give away anything to devious or dishonest Mexicans.  The other half would stay under the temporary supervision of the mission fathers who would also be instructed to carry on with their religious activities as they'd always done.  

The lands and properties of the missions would remain under the priests until such time as the Indians could demonstrate an ability to administer or maintian them. This plan envisioned the day when the padres would do nothing more than run the parish communities for their new Native American parishioners.  

Governor Figueroa's plan may well have succeeded had it not been for his untimely death in 1835.   After he died the mission holdings fell into the hands of greedy politicians who cared little for the Indian's rights. It was these politicians and their friends who divided up the "spoils;" not the priests or Indians as originally intended.  

The dismantling of the California Mission System can, to a large extent, be attributed to the social upheaval created by Spain's decline.  After the break from Spain in 1821, Mexico retained only a weak control over Alta California.   California was, as it had been during the time under Spain, a far away province.  In the mid 1840's American President James K. Polk, a devout believer in "Manifest Destiny," or idea that the United States was "ordained by God" to stretch from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans; goaded Mexico into war.  

President Polk had tried to buy the "Southwest" from a weak Mexican government.   When all his offers were turned down, he sent an army under Zachary Taylor into disputed territory in southern Texas; thereby provoking what became known in the United States as the "Mexican War."

The result of war with Mexico in 1846-47 was the "forced relinquishment" by a defeated Mexico of almost half her land, one of the few things Mexico was rich in.   Mexico had to give up vast areas; areas that would come to be known as the "American Southwest." In 1848, under the terms of the "Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo," the victorious United States received areas later known as the states of New Mexico (then also including Arizona territory), Utah, Nevada, Colorado, and California.  

With the discovery of gold in 1848 at Sutter's Mill in Northern California, the "swarm of humanity," primarily whites, could not be stopped.   In 1851, California became part of the United States.   The 21 California Missions began to fall into a neglected state of disrepair.  

Many do not realize that gold was first "officially" discovered in California not at Sutter's Mill by James W.  Marshall on the south branch of the American River; but on March 9, 1842 in Placerita Canyon, in southern California.  Placerita Canyon was, in the early 19th century, part of the "San Fernando Mission District" ("San Francisquito Rancho").  Francisco Lopez, at that time "Mayordomo" (Caretaker) of the San Fernando Mission, formerly "Alcalde" (Mayor) of Los Angeles, was the man who found the gold particles.  Searching for stray horses, Lopez stopped to rest.   Hoping to dig up wild onions for his birthday dinner that evening, he used his knife to dig in the dirt.   Pulling out onions, he also saw gold.  

In 1862, during the American Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln "restored" the California Mission facilities to the Catholic Church.   But it wasn't until this century that the notion of putting them back in shape really took hold. A period of inspiration had come to an end with the passing of the California Missions.   The Franciscan friars who helped Fathers' Serra and de Lasuen establish and then operate these communities were likely flawed but decent men who were products and reflections of their societies.  

Some today criticize Father Serra and the padres who ran the California Missions for some of their practices and viewpoints.   It is true some of the priests did things like locking up Indian children so their parents would not "run off." They also at times administered various forms of physical punishment.  

But one must think of things in the historical context of two centuries ago.   This was a time when many Catholics and Protestants, as well as Muslims, believed God wanted them to do such things as burn each other at the stake. It was an era in California where one could witness, as entertainment, public hangings and "bull and bear" fighting. It was a period when the Spaniards had the better weaponry so dominated the often disunited native cultures they "governed."

Most of the religious men who came to California considered the Indians human; believing they had souls.   This cannot be said of many, if not most, of their secular contemporaries who saw Indians as "backward, primitive savages and heathens." Though they weren't perfect and made mistakes, by and large the Franciscan priests who worked, died and were buried in Alta California left a good legacy.  Today, the structures and facilities of the California Mission System that have been restored bear their stamp.   Because they were human, many of the priests undoubtedly made errors in judgement.  But more often than not, through Christian example, most of these priests made converts through the message they imparted rather than by a sword; as the conquistadors preferred.  

Most of the priests who helped operate the Alta California Missions succeeded to a certain extent in bringing an element of tolerance in a sometimes violent era.  As long as the California Missions are maintained, the memory of what these priests did, good and bad, will continue on for future generations.  

THE SAN FERNANDO MISSION

On September 8, 1797, a hot day, the second "Presidente"(President) of the California Mission System, Father Fermin de Lasuen, conducted ceremonies establishing "Mission San Fernando." The "modern" history of the San Fernando Valley had begun.  

The San Fernando Mission was the 17th of 21 missions eventually created in Alta California.   It was dedicated in the name of King Ferdinand III (1198-1252), a monarch of Spain who would eventually be named a saint ("San Fernando, Rey de Espana" or "Saint Ferdinand, King of Spain"). Father Junipero Serra, the original Presidente of the California Mission System, established the first nine missions in Alta California.  

Father de Lasuen, taking over after Father Serra's death, intended the site of the San Fernando Mission to be a mid-point rest area for those traveling between the San Gabriel Mission to the south and the mission located to the northwest, the area now called "Santa Barbara" ("San Buenaventura").  

Under "Fray" de Lasuen, many industries were introduced to the California Missions.   The missions now became much more "diversified" places, rather than just agricultural centers as they had been under Father Serra.  Father de Lasuen brought up artisans from Mexico to work with the Indians.   Masons, blacksmiths and carpenters helped him and the converted Indians develop what later generations would call "mission style."

This new mission architecture, with its sloping tiled roofs was, in the 20^th centurty, to become famous to the world as representing California.   During Father Serra's time, the buildings were simple, thatch-covered structures as Father Serra was not concerned about how they looked.   He cared only that they worked well and did what they were supposed to do.  

After Father de Lasuen came to California, tiles ("tejas"), mud-dried adobe bricks ("ladrillos") and stones ("piedras") were used to protect their inhabitants from the elements.   New missions were established, and the nine original missions set up by Father Serra were rebuilt in the mission style of Father de Lasuen.

One of the first things to be done at the San Fernando Mission was the building of a church.   This was accomplished in only two months.   The padres and their new congregation began a period of hard work and many setbacks, but eventually prospered.   Generally, though this was not the only factor; the more food the mission produced, the more Native Americans tended to be attracted to it's grounds and later converted to Catholicism.  

By 1806, the San Fernando Mission was known for the high quality of the ironworks, candles, cloth, leatherwork and carpentry produced by the Native American workers. The initial years of the California Missions were difficult.   All routes from Mexico were hard.   In the early years many lost their lives traveling to Alta California.  At first, the land was slow to make productive enough to feed the soldiers, missionaries, settlers and Indian converts ("neophytes") who lived near the missions. But, after much work, the San Fernando Mission, as well as most of the other California missions, could boast large herds of livestock and big crop yields.  

Because the "pueblo" (town) of Los Angeles was nearby, to the south, there was always a market for the goods and services provided by the San Fernando Mission. The original name of Los Angeles was "Nuestra Senora de la Reina de los Angeles de Porciuncula" or "Our Lady of the Queen of the angels of Porciuncula." The priests who ran the San Fernando Mission were required to supply food for soldiers stationed in Los Angeles.   Eventually this began to be harder and harder to do.

The San Fernando Mission was located on "El Camino Real" or, "The King's Road." This was the road which connected the California Missions from south to north.   Because the mission became a stopover point for travelers, the padres set up sleeping facilities.  

The priests at the San Fernando Mission, in needing rooms for guests to stay in, erected the "Long Building." Today we call this building the "Convento." It is the most easily recognizable structure at the San Fernando Mission.  

During the mission days a special room in the Convento was set aside for the most important guests.   This room is now designated "The Governor's Chamber." It was rediscovered and renovated in the mid 1930's.  Visitors to the mission will notice the Governor's Chamber is nicer than the "utilitarian" barracks-like facilities used for more common guests.  

It was about 1811 that the convert Indian population, which had done most of the physical labor, began to decline.   In 1812, harder times were made worse by a tremendous earthquake which left the padres with many difficult rebuilding projects around the mission.  

In 1827, a new Governor of the recently independent Mexico was appointed.   By this time the padre in charge of the San Fernando Mission was Father Ybarra.  Father Ybarra was adamant in refusing to renounce his allegience to Spain.   He was allowed to stay at the mission because it was not easy to replace him.  

Opposing the "secularization" of the California Missions, Father Ybarra and the other priests eventually had to abandon the San Fernando Mission. During this period the Catholic Church in Mexico had lost some of its moral authority because it had sided with Spain during the revolution. Two priests, going against the Church, Father Hidalgo and Father Morales; had been shot for leading the Mexican people in their revolt. For a century the Mexican people distrusted the Church, though they never gave up their religious faith.   

By 1845 a "distribution" process divided up the grounds of the San Fernando Mission.   Seventeen years later, on May 31, 1862, during the American Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln signed an executive order giving back the San Fernando Mission, as well as 75 acres of land, to the Catholic Church.  

In the second half of the 19th century, the disintegration of the San Fernando Mission accelerated.   By 1888 the grounds were used as stables for keeping livestock.   In the latter 19th century the buildings were used as werehouses.   For a time the grounds were used as a hog farm.   The once proud San Fernando Mission turned to rubble.   In 1896, the "Landmarks Club" decided to "reclaim" the San Fernando Mission.   But it wasn't until 1923, when the Oblate Fathers were given the property; that the San Fernando Mission began to come back to life.  

As mentioned earlier, one of the first structures to be built after the San Fernando Mission's founding was the chapel.   But quickly the San Fernando Mission outgrew this first church.   A second larger chapel was built to replace it.  

After seven years of existance, the priests at the San Fernando Mission had baptized about 1000 Indians; so needed more room for religious services. A third chapel was erected in 1806.   This third building survived the earthquake of 1812, and amazingly remained erect until the 1971 "Sylmar" earthquake. The damage to the chapel in 1971 made it necessary to construct a fourth and final version, which is in existance today.   The current chapel is a replica of the third.  

The newest San Fernando Mission chapel, though built to look exactly like the third, conforms to modern safety codes.   The original look even includes sloping or "tapered" interior walls which look odd to many. They are 7 feet thick at the base while only 5 feet thick on the top; near the roof.  It was in this chapel that Pope Paul II, a student of history who wanted to visit the San Fernando Mission; celebrated mass with a large group of Bishops on his visit to Los Angeles in the Fall of 1987.  

One difference in the chapel at the San Fernando Mission from those at the other missions is it's distance from the "main wing" or, in this case, the Convento building.  There are six large "indentations" in the interior walls of the San Fernando Mission Chapel.   Each houses a painting, one of which is a painting of St. Francis of Assisi; a work of art actually from the mission period.  The indentions on the interior walls of the chapel have "rounded" tops which arch upward into a point, a unique "Moorish" feature found only at the San Fernando Mission.   These same arched windows can also be seen inside the Convento.  

Colorful wavy lines on the interior walls of the chapel are just like those the original Native American artists painted.   For many years, in the center section of the chapel, was a wall painting the Indians saw as representing their "River of Life." Unfortunately, it has recently been painted over. In recent years, the interior walls of various sections of the San Fernando Mission have been beautifully repainted in the original manner.   This adds greatly to the impression given to visitors.  

There are few things at the current San Fernando Mission which are original to the period.   There are three notable exceptions: The painting of St. Francis in the chapel, one bell which hangs in the West Garden, and a 125 pound statue of King Ferdinand III which sits above the altar inside the chapel.  This statue of King Ferdinand is a hand-carved, polychromed, gold-leafed wooden model of the 13th century King and Saint.  It has survived when so much has not.  

After the San Fernando Mission was deserted and left to decay, the old statue of King Ferdinand was taken and put on a pedastal to the right of an altar in a temporary chapel near one end of the Convento building.   Years later, when St. Ferdinand's Church was built in the nearby town of San Fernando, the statue was taken from the mission and put on it's central altar.   In 1941 King Ferdinand was returned to the mission.  

 In November of 1974, the "fourth" chapel was rededicated after being rebuilt from the damage sustained in the Sylmar earthquake.   During this earthquake the statue of Saint Ferdinand fell off the altar and broke.  Though shattered, this piece of California history was skillfully restored by modern science.   The man who did the restoration was Mr.   Fred Rolla.  

Mr. Rolla, at the time sixty-five years old, delicately used gesso and wood putty, as well as glue and cement, to bring the statue back.   He proved one is never too old to do high quality work.   Mr. Rolla has skills which only experience from many years of study can provide. Mr. Rolla's restored twelve-colored King Ferdinand, a statue which shows the King with a sceptre in his hand, now again sits above the beautiful gold altar in the chapel.  

For guests arriving at the San Fernando Mission, in the modern city of Mission Hills; the first thing they see is the long 21-arch "portico" (porch) which runs the length of the Convento building. Over the years, visitors have come to associate the San Fernando Mission with the 21 "Roman" arches at the front of the Convento building.  The Convento arches now face San Fernando Mission Boulevard; or what used to be part of El Camino Real.   For generations, "los arcos" (the arches) have inspired artists.  

The "arcaded" Convento building, whose dimensions are 243 feet in length and 50 feet in width, is the single largest building of any found in the California Mission System.  The walls of the Convento are three feet thick, the roof 45 feet high.   The "Sala" ("Room"), or front reception area, is the largest room in all of the California Missions.   Shell patterns above the hand-hewn doors, as well as hand-forged lock and bolts on the doors are just as they were in the early 19^th century. The iron grating on the outside windows are also the same as they were during the mission period.

As mentioned earlier, the Convento was used by the priests to board guests who were visiting the area. It was begun in 1810 and completed in 1822; exactly during the decade when Mexico was ousting Spain.   The "padres quarters" were situated in the east end, while the rooms in the west were used for guests. 

Today, the "Long Building" of the San Fernando Mission is a repository for many relics and artifacts from the California Mission era.   Throughout the San Fernando Mission one can see "faithful" copies of Spanish "Colonial" furniture.   These pieces of furniture are heavy and solid.  

 Inside the Convento are restored rooms which give the visitor an idea of how this large building was utilized in the early 19th century by the priests as, in effect, the San Fernando Valley's first hotel.  In the early 19th century the Convento had as many as twenty rooms which included: the padres quarters, accomodations for guests, a small chapel, a large reception room, storehouse, kitchen, winery and a refectory.  

Some of the rooms in the Convento have been restored and are now furnished with artifacts made to look as close to the originals as possible.  

Because the walls of the Convento were so thick, the original builders were able to design into the construction the "peaked" Moorish arches in the doorways and window jams already alluded to.   The Spaniards, as Christians, since the 8th century, fought to evict the Moors from the Spanish mainland.  

The religion of "Islam" grew through military conquest after the death of it's founder, the Prophet Muhammad in 632 A. D.   By the early 8th century the Moors had conquered all of North Africa.   Soon they crossed over the Straits of Gibraltar and gained a strong foothold on the Iberian Peninsula, where Spain and Portugal are located.  

The Moors would stay lodged in Spain for approximately eight centuries.   Some of their cities, such as Cordova became the most architectually advanced in the world. The curved or pointed arches in the interior window jams inside the Convento building have been called "Mudajer" style.  

The Moors remained in Spain and it seemed like they were going to be there forever.   But in the 13th century some Spanish princes in the north began what would be called the "Reconquista" (re-conquest) of Spain. King Ferdinand III was one of those rulers who attempted to get the Moors out of Spain during the re-conquest of southern Spain.   He achieved military victories at Ubeda in 1234, Cordova in 1236 and Seville in 1248. By 1492, the year Columbus finally got permission from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella to make his famous first voyage, the last of the Muslims, as well as many Jews, were pushed out of Spain.  

 During the period following secularization, the Convento, with its recollections of history, was used by various entities for many ordinary purposes.   In the years 1857 through 1861, the Butterfield Stage Coach Company utilized the structure as a rest stop or station between Los Angeles and San Francisco. At this time other sections of the Convento were used for storage.   Later, a Land and Water Company continued to use the Long Building for overnight facilities.  Andres Pico, the brother of the last Mexican governor of California (Pio Pico), lived in the Convento for a few years.   Explorer and soldier John C. Fremont occupied the Convento just before the Mexican War of the mid-1840s.  

The San Fernando Mission has, below, and to the rear of the Convento, a wine cellar.   This cool wine cellar has the only existing wine press from the mission period in California.   There are huge wooden casks and barrels inside the wine cellar.   This old wine cellar was restored by the Italian Catholic Federation years ago.   Unfortunately, it is now closed to the public.  

Wine was produced at the San Fernando Mission during the 19th century.   It was important to the priests.   They used wine for religious and everyday purposes.   The wine produced at the San Fernando Mission was a pleasant red variety.   It was described as "a good claret." The grapevines at the San Fernando Mission originated from plants brought from Spain via Baja California.   By 1832 the San Fernando Mission had about 32,000 grapevines in its surrounding fields.  

In the San Fernando Mission's dark, dry wine cellar, back in the shadows, sits a big "still." Brandy was made using this large still during the time of the missions.  When in use, stills like the one at the San Fernando Mission were filled with fermented pulp and thousands of grape skins; from which the juice was pressed.   The result was a "fine" brandy.  

The San Fernando Mission, in it's current restord state, has two gardens, the East and West Gardens.   These grounds are peaceful and tranquil settings. Cats, peacocks and chickens roam freely in both the "East" and "West" Gardens; adding to the serene and meditative atmosphere inside the colorful mission grounds.  Strolling about the San Fernando Mission, one sees a wide variety of plantlife.   There is every kind of tree that was planted in the California missions.  

Hanging in one of the outside corridors in the West Garden, held by rawhide thongs from a beam, is an old bell known as the "Russian Bell." Earlier it was stated that there are three exceptions to the rule that most things one sees at the San Fernando Mission are copies.  The Russian Bell is one of these exceptions.  Along with the painting of St. Francis and statue of King Ferdinand in the chapel, this bronze bell can be traced directly from the mission period.    

The Russian Bell, with its delicate designs on its exterior, is believed to have been cast on Kodiak Island in 1796; a year before the San Fernando Mission was established by Father de Lasuen.  Scholars believe the Russian Bell was brought to Alta California in the Spring of 1805 by a Russian Count, Nikolai Von Rezanov; who had traveled down to San Francisco from a trading post in Sitka, to the north.   Rezanov hoped to obtain food and supplies for his Russian colony.  

The people in Sitka were starving and suffering from scurvy.   But if food had been Rezanov's only consideration he most likely would have sailed to Hawaii. But Count Rezanov also hoped to develop fur trading with the authorities in Spanish California.   He tried to conceal the situation in Sitka.  

Exchanging the Russian Bell for grain, Count Rezanov was helped in 1806 by Concepcion Arguello, the daughter of the military "Comandante" (Commander) Jose Arguello of San Francisco.  Count Rezanov hoped to change the minds of Spanish officials who were very reluctant to permit trade with a rival foreign power that was a competitor to Spain. Presumably, Rezanov was able to convince Comandante Arguello to trade or buy the bell.   Arguello later gave the bell to the friars who managed the San Fernando Mission.  

When the California Mission System was being dismantled in the mid-19^th century, six bells were taken from the San Fernando Mission.   One of these was the Russian Bell.  In the 1850's, for safekeeping, these bells were taken to the Los Angeles Plaza Church.   Later, the Russian Bell came into the hands of the "Sisters of Charity" Orphanage in what is now Boyle Heights. Eventully, the Russian Bell was returned to the San Fernando Mission.   It now hangs in a garden area on the west side of the mission grounds.  

In the middle of the East Garden is a large round fountain.   This fountain, a replica of a fountain in Cordova, Spain, is, not surprisingly, called the "Cordova Fountain." Formed by interlocking arcs, the base and design of the Cordova Fountain is in the shape of a "Moorish" star; another example of Muslim influence.   Originally gravity fed, the fountain now utilizes pumps.  

The Cordova Fountain is actually a copy of another fountain built across the street from the San Fernando Mission; at Brand Park. It was built by Mr. Arthur Ballin, a World War II veteran who saw much action in the South Pacific. Mr. Ballin, born in Corona, California, retired in 1994. He worked for the San Fernando Mission for 37 years and built the Cordova Fountain in 1964; over another fountain on the same site.

Acting as a sort of partition between the East and West Gardens are a series of "Workshops" and a museum rebuilt in the late 1940's, after World War II.  The William Randolph Hearst Foundation financed the entire reconstruction of this part of the San Fernando Mission.   Arising from delapidated adobe walls, these rooms now house many artifacts and replica exhibits such as a loom, period saddles, leather and pottery. There is also a re-created blacksmith and carpentry shop. Original tools hang on the walls.

As with all the California Missions, the San Fernando Mission, isolated from Spain, was expected to be relatively self-sufficient.   It was therefore necessary to manufacture tools, saddles and implements used for every day purposes.  At it's peak, the San Fernando Mission encompassed about 21,000 acres.   During this period, there were thousands of cows and other forms of livestock. In the year 1819, considered by many as the San Fernando Mission's most successful year, cattle raising was a thriving industry. There were 12,800 head of cattle, 7,800 sheep, 176 goats, 45 pigs, 144 mules and 780 horses.  

Crop yeilds at Mission San Fernando were generally sufficient to feed the priests and everyone who lived near the mission complex.   But there were also some hard times.  There was much work to be done at the San Fernando Mission in the early years of the 19^th century.   Great perseverance was required to make it a success.  

Workshops like the ones between the east and west gardens were an integral and vital part of any mission complex.   Some of the reasons why Father de Lasuen decided to establish the San Fernando Mission where he did was the water, limestone, fertile soil and good pasture. But another important consideration was the pine forest to the northwest.   The native craftsmen who manufactured tools and other things necessary for the mission to function had good wood to work with.  

The San Fernando Mission grounds today give testimony to the work done by the many Franciscan padres, as well as their Native American followers. When one views the many replica tools on display at the San Fernando Mission one thinks of those times so, in a "philosophical" sense, the people from that era still live; if only in the minds of others.  

As long as the California Missions remain, there is tangible evidence of the work done by the priests under Fathers Serra and de Lasuen. The San Fernando Mission is an important part of the history of the San Fernando Valley and reminds us of times long ago.  

"FOR EVERY THING THERE IS A PURPOSE, AND A TIME FOR EVERY PURPOSE UNDER HEAVEN; A TIME TO BE BORN, A TIME TO DIE, A TIME TO REAP, A TIME TO SOW, A TIME TO WEEP AND A TIME TO LAUGH"

ECCLESIASTES 3:1 (BOOK OF GENESIS)